A new investigative report has ignited controversy in South Korea’s entertainment industry after revealing the staggering fees charged by some of the country’s most sought-after celebrity hair, makeup, and styling professionals—commonly referred to as “HMU” (Hair, Makeup, Styling).

According to the report, top celebrity stylists can reportedly earn up to 25 million KRW (approximately $20,000 USD) in a single day, with the combined HMU costs for major commercial shoots sometimes consuming nearly 20% of an entire television advertisement’s production budget.

The report cited a commercial shoot featuring actor Kim Woo Bin for the language-learning platform Speak as one example of today’s premium HMU pricing. During the one-day production: Kim Woo Bin wore two full outfits plus one jacket change.

  • His stylist reportedly charged 25 million KRW: 20 million KRW for styling two outfits
  • An additional 5 million KRW for the accompanying print campaign.
  • Hair designer Lim Cheol Woo reportedly earned 15 million KRW, including: 12 million KRW for two video advertisements and 3 million KRW for print photography.

Including makeup, the commercial reportedly spent approximately 48 million KRW ($35,000 USD) solely on hair, makeup, and styling. Industry insiders noted that a single day’s styling fee can equal the annual salary of a rookie entertainment agency manager.

According to the investigation, there is no standardized pricing system governing celebrity HMU services. Instead, fees are largely determined by each stylist or beauty professional. Several prominent stylists, hair designers, and makeup artists reportedly charge between 10 million and 30 million KRW per day, with final invoices increasing through various additional charges. Common surcharges reportedly include:

  • Multiple commercial videos filmed in one day (“Multi Pay”)
  • Simultaneous print advertising shoots (“Linked Pay”)
  • Overtime exceeding 12 hours
  • Overseas filming
  • Additional usage in multiple countries
  • Extra fees based on global advertising distribution

One industry source described the pricing structure as similar to buying a car: “The base price looks reasonable, but numerous options quickly multiply the final cost.”

The report cited several advertising campaigns to illustrate the pricing structure. For an advertisement featuring Lee Dong Wook, stylist Nam Joo Hee reportedly charged 17 million KRW for styling two outfits after adding fees for multiple video versions and print production.

In another example, Jang Won Young’s commercial for Dyson allegedly resulted in stylist Lee Yoon Mi charging approximately 27 million KRW after accounting for:

  • Two commercial videos
  • Print photography
  • Three outfit changes
  • Additional global usage fees

One of the industry’s most controversial practices involves so-called global fees, which some HMU professionals reportedly justify as compensation for the broader use of their creative work across multiple countries. The report highlighted two advertisements featuring G-Dragon, where the same HMU team allegedly charged between 61.5 million and 78.5 million KRW depending on overseas distribution.

However, legal experts interviewed for the investigation overwhelmingly questioned whether such charges have any copyright basis. According to multiple attorneys, hairstyles, makeup, and wardrobe coordination are generally considered technical services rather than independently copyrightable creative works.

One lawyer explained that because these services are:

  • Applied to a human body rather than a fixed medium,
  • Executed according to a client’s instructions,
  • Inseparable from the celebrity’s appearance,

They are unlikely to qualify for copyright protection under Korean law.

Another attorney added that additional charges for expanded advertising usage would generally require a new service being provided, rather than merely reusing existing footage.

Industry insiders say soaring HMU expenses are forcing production companies to reduce spending elsewhere. Commercial budgets in Korea typically range between 150 million and 300 million KRW, yet HMU alone can reportedly consume 30–50 million KRW, accounting for 15–20% of total production costs. Producers claim this often leads to:

  • Smaller production sets
  • Reduced equipment rentals
  • Lower visual quality
  • Cuts to other departments

One production executive said : “To afford HMU costs, something else has to be sacrificed.” Some advertisers have reportedly begun choosing different celebrity endorsers whose preferred HMU teams charge more reasonable rates. In one example, an emerging actor allegedly lost a commercial contract after their HMU estimate reached 40 million KRW per shoot, which would have totaled 160 million KRW across four annual filming sessions nearly matching the actor’s annual endorsement fee.

The report argues that another major factor driving prices is the close relationship between celebrities and their long-time HMU teams. Many stars reportedly insist on working exclusively with specific stylists, limiting advertisers’ ability to hire more affordable alternatives. Some stylists defended the practice, arguing that replacing them could compromise wardrobe fit and the overall quality of the shoot due to their deep familiarity with each celebrity’s body shape, preferences, and image.

Critics, however, argue that the arrangement effectively creates a closed ecosystem where advertisers have little negotiating power.

The report also compared South Korea’s system with practices in Hollywood. According to a major U.S. talent agency, Hollywood generally operates on a straightforward day-rate system, meaning the agreed payment covers all work performed that day. Unlike Korea’s reported pricing model, U.S. stylists generally do not charge additional fees for:

  • Multiple video edits
  • Print campaigns
  • Additional commercial versions
  • Global advertising distribution

Instead, advertisers often establish a fixed HMU budget cap, leaving celebrities to decide whether to contribute additional personal funds, negotiate lower stylist fees or select different creative staff. Day rates in Hollywood reportedly range anywhere from $1,000 to $25,000, depending on the stylist’s reputation and demand.

The report has fueled renewed discussion about widening income disparities within Korea’s entertainment production industry. While elite HMU professionals can reportedly earn tens of millions of won per day, assistants and junior staff often receive monthly salaries of around 2 million KRW despite working behind the scenes.

The investigation concludes that the industry’s current pricing structure is sustained by the combination of celebrity loyalty and limited competition, leaving advertisers with little bargaining power while placing increasing pressure on overall production budgets.

Sources: Dispatch